Author: David Mitchell

David Mitchell Quick Answer: To learn how to build a campervan bed platform, measure your van, choose a frame style, cut a plywood deck and supports, fasten the frame to factory anchor points, then add a breathable mattress. Aim for sturdy, light materials and leave room underneath for gear. Pull up a stool. I have spent more than one Saturday in a friend’s garage, tape measure in hand, staring at an empty cargo van and wondering where the bed should go. The good news: a campervan bed platform is one of the most doable projects in any van build. Grab…

David Mitchell Quick Answer: To boondock in an RV, choose a legal public-land site, arrive in daylight, and level your rig. Then budget water, battery power, and tank space for every day you plan to stay. Pack out all trash and follow local stay limits and fire rules. Picture your first night with no hookups. The sun drops behind a ridge, the only sound is wind, and your fridge hums quietly on battery power. That moment is what draws people to boondocking. It also rewards the people who planned ahead. This guide covers how to boondock in an RV for…

David Mitchell Quick Answer: To air down tires for off-road driving, park on level ground, check cold pressure, then release air in small steps until you reach a terrain-based target, often 15–25 PSI on trails. Stay within your tire maker’s limits, drive slowly, and re-inflate before returning to pavement. Picture a weekend overlander in a Tacoma rolling up to a sandy wash. The rig ahead digs in and stalls. Two minutes and a few PSI later, the Tacoma floats right across. That small change is not magic, but it is one of the most useful skills in trail driving. This…

By David Mitchell Quick Answer: Block the sun first, then move air. Park in shade, cover windows with reflective shields, open vents on opposite sides with fans, cook outside, and drive or hike during the cool hours. Pair these habits with a few simple upgrades, and most rigs stay comfortable in moderate heat. It is 2 p.m. at a desert campsite. The awning is out, the fan is humming, and the thermometer inside the camper still creeps up. I have sat in that exact spot, and it taught me that cooling an RV is less about adding cold and more…

By David Mitchell Quick Answer: To inspect an RV before buying, check the roof, seals, and walls for water damage first. Then look at the tires, frame, and chassis. Test every system (propane, power, water, appliances), take a long test drive, review the records, and pay for a professional inspection before you sign. Picture this. You find a Class C online with fresh photos, a clean cabin, and a fair price. Then, on a Saturday walk-through, your shoe presses on a soft spot near the shower. Smart buyers ask questions before they fall in love with a floor plan. This…

David Mitchell Quick Answer: To install a campervan awning, pick a mounting method your roof or rack can safely carry, dry-fit the awning with tape, secure the brackets with rated hardware and backing plates, seal every hole, lift the awning with a helper, tighten everything, and test in light wind. Hire a pro for structural drilling. Pull up a stool, because this is the way I would talk a friend through it in my garage. An awning turns a parked van into a covered living room. It also adds weight, wind load, and a few holes in your roof, so…

By David Mitchell Quick Answer: To install a campervan floor, strip and clean the van, treat any rust, add rigid insulation, fit a plywood subfloor, then lay waterproof flooring with a small expansion gap. Check for hidden lines before drilling, track the added weight against your payload, and seal every edge. Pull up a stool. A few years ago I helped a friend with a bare cargo van, and we spent one Saturday arguing about a single question: which layer goes down first? Here is the plain answer. A good floor is built in layers, and every layer has one…

David Mitchell Quick Answer: Mark the opening from the inside, check for wiring and ribs, cut with a jigsaw or nibbler, treat the bare metal edge, then bed the frame in butyl tape and sealant. Tighten evenly, let the sealant cure, and water-test before you travel. Picture a Saturday morning in my garage. A friend rolls in with a bare cargo van, a tape measure, and a look that says, “Am I really about to cut a hole in this thing?” Yes, you are, and it is very doable. I’ll walk you through it the way I’d walk a buddy…

David Mitchell Quick Answer: To install a DC to DC charger in a van, mount it close to the house battery, run correctly sized, fused cable from the starter battery, add an ignition signal if your model needs one, make a solid ground, then test with a multimeter. Disconnect power first and follow the charger’s manual. Picture a Saturday morning in the garage. The van’s back doors are open, the coffee is cooling on the workbench, and you’re holding a charger about the size of a paperback. I’ve stood in that spot more than once, and I’ll walk you through…

By David Mitchell Quick Answer: To install a roof vent fan, pick a flat, rib-free spot, trace a template, drill corner pilot holes, cut and rust-proof the opening, bed the flange in butyl tape, screw it down, seal the edges, and wire it through a fused 12V circuit. Test with a hose before you hit the road. Pull up a folding stool, because we are heading into the garage. A roof vent fan is one of the best upgrades for any van build, and it is also one of the first places a rushed job can leak. I will walk…

By David Mitchell Quick Answer: To install a rooftop tent, confirm your roof’s dynamic load rating, mount crossbars rated for the tent’s weight, lift the tent with two or more people, secure it with the supplied brackets, torque every bolt to the manufacturer’s specification, and re-check the hardware after your first few drives. Picture this: it’s Friday afternoon, the tent box is sitting in your driveway, and your weekend trip starts in two hours. You lift one end, realize it weighs more than you guessed, and wonder if your roof rack can really hold it. That moment of doubt is…

By David Mitchell Quick Answer: To level an RV on uneven ground, pick the flattest spot you can, chock the wheels, use a bubble level to find the high and low sides, drive onto leveling blocks or ramps under the low side, then adjust jacks and stabilizers last. Re-check both side to side and front to back. Picture this. It is late afternoon, the light is turning gold, and you have just rolled into a forest site that looked flat in the photos. You set a marble on the counter and watch it roll straight into the sink. Sound familiar?…